Bike Rides: Love at First Sight

Hyderabad

‘Never ever do it again! Never, get on somebody’s bike just like you did now! This was an exception. I got you safely back home since it was dark, but that’s because I am a good person, I work in England, so I know how foreigners feel when they need help. But keep in mind that other Indians might not be like that.” I am being seriously warned by a mysterious motorbike rider as I reach my home on his bike at around 8pm in the evening. Dark as night are his clothes and the massive helmet making him look like a black knight. When he talks to me, it’s rather his worrying but friendly eyes than his voice pent in his helmet and sounding raspy and rough. Indeed, my saviour wanted to be strict and serious about the matter contrary to the young, frivolous and excited girl pretending to be listening carefully while actually … she had just fell in love with the bike rides. 

He himself thought he can be justified. He found me roaming in the streets without any clue about directions somewhere in Lakdikapool area. It was slowly getting dark and I was still a newcomer in the town; perfect match to get lost and be found again. 

The Black Knight:  Excuse me, where are you going? 

Me (finally there’s someone to help me): To SPAR supermarket.

The Black Knight: SPAR supermarket? This is the wrong way.  

Me (I knew I would never find it myself): Oh really? No wonder, this is my first time to try to find it alone. 

The Black Knight: Do you specifically need SPAR supermarket or any supermarket would do? 

Me: Any supermarket. (Yes, yes, please take me there! All I need now is a supermarket before it gets darker.)

The Black Knight (pondering): Well, then come on my bike, I will take you to one supermarket nearby.

Me (pretending to be careful and thinking): OK. (I knew this would happen in the best scenario.)

Perhaps, many people would have refused getting on a stranger’s bike, but somehow I had a feeling that my so called knight is a good person. Besides, motorbikes (or as Indians call ‘bikes’) are one of the most common and convenient means of transportation in Hyderabad, and needless to say, it was lust urging me to try it for the very first time.  Well, nobody told me that the first time would come in the seemingly most unexpected moment as I was wearing skirt, hurrying to do my shopping and letting it become darker as my sense for directions became vaguer. However, maybe this was exactly what was needed to make this bike ride so magical and romantic. Therefore, I didn't hesitate a second: immediately got on, arranged my skirt so that it covers my knees (though who cares about it anyway), cramped my hands in the handles on the back of the bike and here I was. Ready to go! Going! Floating in the breeze and feeling my hair dancing on my back and forehead, my skirt happily fluttering in the air and my soul singing. It was love at first sight undoubtedly as I even forgot what I needed from the supermarket. However, as promised my knight got me there and I randomly bought some food items already thinking about the way back home. Yes, yes, again on his bike! 

After having dropped me home, he said that one sentence which I never wanted to hear as I was irretrievably in love with… with bike rides. ‘Don’t ever get on a stranger’s bike? Don’t ever ride anybody’s bike! It’s dangerous and you might fall down!” I reluctantly promised I would follow that, but secretly knew he is not going to succeed intimidating me. I liked that ride! And I am going to try it again once I get a chance. 

I got it already the next day when I and my Mexican friend appeared to be lost at night in the centre of Hyderabad. There were some random guys offering us a lift back home and here we go – getting on a bike again!

Actually, it’s pretty common for women and even for children to use bike as a means of transportation. Moreover, the bikes can serve for different purposes, for example, there are family bikes with 3 or 4 places. Of course, everything has its downsides, and the green activists would never support the motorbike dominance in the city. Well, Indians don’t seem to bother about it.

Auto – rickshaw

Auto driver in Hyderabad

If you don’t have your own bike, you would often commute from place to place by rickshaw or auto (as the locals call it). It’s like a taxi: you tell where you need to go and the driver will get you there. Sounds easy? It is… and it’s not!!! You may face problems here as well. First, you need to agree on the price and most probably the auto driver would want to charge you more (as from a foreigner) or refuse using the meter. Secondly, you have to be ready that the driver would not always know the address precisely, so he might know only the area and then spend time (waste your precious time) looking around and asking to others while you are getting annoyed. However, sometimes the drivers are just amiable chaps who even try talking to you and ask some questions about India and/or your country. Not always they would speak perfect English as these kinds of jobs are done by lower class people, but mostly you can find a way to communicate. This was the transportation I used most often when I had to go somewhere in the city and to be honest – I already miss it.

Cycle 

A street in Panaji (Goa).

What I experienced in Delhi (not that much in Hyderabad) was a kind of vehicle we use in Riga for entertaining tourists. Yes, so called cycles might also be used to get around. That way the driver is economic as he doesn’t use petrol, and “green” to the city. Well, he needs to put more efforts though.

Public bus

In a bus in Bangalore

Public buses are pretty organized. At least they have numbers, and if I am right, they run according to a certain timetable. This was not the case in Egypt for example, where you need to stop the bus by showing signs with your hand(s) and there are definitely no timetables (to most of the buses), and people are sometimes running in crowds and struggling to get in. Compared to that, congrats for India, it was pretty much ok! What I found funny in the bus was the way it was divided into male and female seats. Well, if you look deeper in Indian culture, this is just a normal thing as this is the way everything seems to work. They do have women rights, but for sure, it’s something different to what we (Europeans) understand by it. It’s more like segmentation into two genders. Well, I guess that’s a story for another post. In fact, I didn’t need to take public bus that often as I mostly used auto or my school bus. 

(Jump off a) Train 

Train Bangalore - Hyderabad

“Are they really standing out of the train while it’s still running?” I was asked after coming back from India. This seems to be a scene many have seen on TV and wondered how it’s possible. Yes, it is possible! Trains might move slowly especially when approaching the next station, and there are even people who jump out of the train when their stop comes as the train doesn’t stop completely but only reduces its speed. Yes, it happens. Otherwise, trains are very common and CHEAP to use if you want to commute between the cities. It takes time, but if you have secured a sleeping place in a sleeper class, it’s usually a convenient way to spend a night. You wake up and you have reached a new city. However, the trains might not always be that clean and hygienic (especially the toilets). Moreover, don’t be surprised to share your bed with cockroaches or see some random rats passing by. Also, be aware of pickpockets! Especially during night it’s better to keep your precious stuff with you so that you can have a control over it. In general, trains are very lively means of transportation and if you go for a train, you go for Indian culture and adventure. It's always interesting to observe the train vendors selling snacks, water bottles, chai (tea), coffee, Masala dosa (Indian spice delicacy) and pronouncing it with their special Indian accent. That is something to discover on your own skin until you get annoyed by that: always loud voices never giving you time for a peaceful nap but always making sure you have something to eat and drink. 

A train vendor.

A train vendor.

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Esmu sākusi publicēt uz reāliem notikumiem balstītu pieredzes vēstījumu par Ēģipti interneta vietnē

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I have started publishing a semi-fictional novel about Egypt in Latvian. Go to http://tristasesegiptes.lv/ to find out more about it.

Damien Rice's modesty and emotions

Positivus 2012
Salacgrīva, Latvia
June 21st 

Photo by Margarita Ogoļceva

The fact that Damien Rice’s performance has been long awaited is shown by the tightly compressed crowd shortly before his show as there seems to be no free place left and for sure, no chance to take the front row. No wonder, his concerts in America and Europe have been sold out. The Irish folk-musician who is not giving live performances that often is thus exceptionally welcomed on Positivus stage with his first ever concert in Latvia.  

No posh introductions and backgrounds, no luxury, it’s just Damien Rice with his guitar arriving on a stage in his humbleness and starting on with the first song The Professor. It’s followed by Delicate, Volcano, Elephant, Cannonball, Fool almost without any breaks between the songs except for Damien’s thankful smile from time to time. One song ends and the next one starts as if telling a story where each song would be a chapter that naturally leads to some continuation. 

For a moment, it feels this could happen anywhere; be it a large, crowded festival or an intimate evening among friends. The setting doesn’t matter as long as it’s Damien Rice who is unique, genuine and authentic making the atmosphere so special. He hardly speaks a word on a stage leaving an impression that he has the secondary role while his songs live their separate distinct life. It’s just like he has said in one of the interviews comparing his as creator’s role to the situation of parents when they have children. He is transmitting his music to others. His music that cries, laughs, screams, yells, feels. That all performed and felt by Damien Rice with his emotions for loneliness, sorrow, anger, love. 

Song by song we get to hear Cold Water, Hallelujah, I remember, Woman Like A Man and then it’s time to ‘close the curtains’ with The Blower’s Daughter. The last song is perceived with exaltation and cheering from the audience. The evening is over. Everyone is clapping hands and smiling including Damien Rice himself as if thanking to his own creativity and his songs that have made the evening unforgettable and immensely emotional.

Manic Street Preachers happy to be back

Positivus 2012

Salacgrīva, Latvia

June 21st 

Photo by Margarita Ogoļceva

It was four years back when Manic Street Preachers played on Positivus stage for their first time. Now the famous Welsh rock band can recall the venue very well and though their role is similar – the last headliners on the main stage on the second day of the festival – this time the crowd is much bigger, and agreeing with bassist Nicholas Allen Jones ‘it [the show] is gonna be better’.

It starts on this beautifully decorated stage with glittering pink cherry trees like at Japanese cherry blossom season and a picture of a blond girl with a crown on her head gazing at the audience from the back of the stage when the band suddenly appears, and the lead guitarist James Dean Bradfield vigorously announces the first song. It is Motorcycle Emptiness from Manics first album Generation Terrorists that immediately moves the audience followed by Your Love Alone Is Not Enough and Ocean Spray altogether ensuring a very powerful beginning. ‘It was easy to come back,’ confirms the lead singer.

The band continues with (It’s not War) Just the End of Love and The Everlasting where everyone joins in the catchy and nostalgic part In the beginning/ When we were winning, and the band goes on with Everything Must Go and Found That Soul. Then James Bradfield announces an old song written in 70s, and it is Suicide Is Painless. After that we hear You Stole The Sun From My Heart and Revol from The Holy Bible remembering and honouring Richey Edwards for the remarkable lyrics he has left behind. You Love Us comes next followed by The Masses Against The Classes, another socially meaningful piece.

Towards the end of the show we hear A Design For Life and Tsunami, and after exclusive introductions of every band member the very last song is announced. If You Tolerate This Your Children Will Be Next is performed by Manics and accompanied by everyone else in the crowd singing along. What an emotionally uplifting ending with youngs and olds coming together and Manics genuinely enjoying themselves having played another great show at Positivus!

Friendly Fires’ dance show

Positivus festival 2012

Salacgrīva, Latvia

June 20th 

Photo by Margarita Ogoļceva

They want to be remembered by their performance. They want to show their energy. They want to create this crazy indie rock and dance party. Confident, energetic, bright they come on Positivus main stage as one of the main headliners on June 20th and impress yet another crowd with their expressive performance in their busy festival and gig schedule. Friendly Fires know how to do it. 

They want the audience to actually see something once they have come to the gig, the lead singer Ed Macfarlane admits in the press conference shortly before their show. Playing live is their thing, you get to know it once experiencing their show. And perhaps you would not feel in their records the charm they have when playing live with absolutely brilliant Ed Macfarlane who impresses most. His dances and moves are vigorous, genuine and engaging. They fit in with the music and show the way they feel about it. 

They are fast thinking and doing as they rush through their playlist starting with Lovesick, then Jump in the Pool followed by Blue Cassette, On Board, Skeleton Boy, Live Those Days Tonight. There are slower songs in between that make them rest but not for long – the next fast song comes again and Friendly Fires just like fire are not supposed to burn out during their own party. Paris is perhaps the first single they have been recognized by, and they take us there towards the end of the show. It’s followed by breathing together Hawaiian Air and finally – the band gives us the Kiss of Life. The set list is well prepared and carried out unitedly.

One is clear, when the show is over, they have given their 100% though not maybe impressed the audience with being orally talkative and saying how much they like being here. No, they are not that kind of band. And they don’t need to be. They communicate through their music, and Ed’s moves are contagious to certainly make others dance and enjoy. It’s a great show after all that ends with wet shirts and happy faces.

Me and Ed Macfarlane from Friendly Fires.

The Vaccines' Party in the Mud

Positivus 2012

Salacgrīva, Latvia

June 21st

Photo by Margarita Ogoļceva

Perhaps last year nobody would have expected to see English indie rockers The Vaccines on the main stage. But What Did You Expect From The Vaccines? has been released just last year. And if you didn’t expect, it has reached number 4 in the UK Album Chart. If you didn’t expect, they have toured around extensively ‘vaccinating’ masses with their music. This summer unexpectedly or expectedly the currently hottest new British rock band performed at Positivus.

They come on a stage with No Hope, and without any special invitation their greatest fans are already dancing and enjoying as that is what The Vaccines energetic music is supposed to do with you. The show goes on with Wrecking Bar (Ra, Ra, Ra), and then the band stops for a moment to say ‘hello’ in Latvian (‘sveiki’). That is always very appreciated by the audience and proves that they don’t just change the airports without having a clue where they have arrived as might be expected from such a hectic touring The Vaccines have.

Tiger Blood is announced to be the next song followed by A Lack Of Understanding, Wetsuit, Post Break-up Sex, All In White, Wolf Pack. They are also very proud to show the new compositions, and we get to hear Teenage Icon and Ghost Town. For the end of the show the indie rockers have saved such songs as Blow It Up and If You Wanna which is their first and definitely the greatest hit earning extra clapping and dancing from the audience. We hear one more new song which is Bad Mood before the very last one – Norgaard which seems like a good way to end this party in the mud.

The Vaccines leave the stage but not so soon the Baltics. They will be heard in Estonia and Lithuania in the end of July supporting Red Hot Chili Peppers on their tour.

Positivus festival 2012

Salacgrīva, Latvia 

July 20 – 21
Reviewed: Lucy Rose, Housse de Racket, Niki & The Dove, Ewert and The Two Dragons, Fanfarlo, Brodka

Magical festival (Tom Chaplin from Keane), as in a fairy-tale forest (Ed Macfarlane from Friendly Fires) with its distinct aura not turning into one big festival (Lucy Rose). Musicians who played at the sixth Positivus festival in Salacgrīva, Latvia on July 20 and 21 have praised its unique ambience in different words. Keane, Damien Rice, The Vaccines, Manic Street Preachers and many more international and Baltic acts were enjoyed by 25 000 music fans from many countries. Concertsnews.be reviewed some of the gigs.

Lucy Rose (UK)

She might look like a very young and fragile girl but actually this English singer/songwriter Lucy Rose is very confident and persistent about what she is doing. ‘Control freak’ as she called herself in a press conference. She will make sure she is involved in every single part in regards to her music. Lucy Rose has received a lot of promising words from music critics, and after seeing her performance at Positivus festival you will agree it’s totally deserved. As the talented musician comes on a stage, she starts with one of her best known songs Middle of the Bed immediately making a connection with the audience.  She admits this is one of the greatest crowds the band has ever experienced and cannot resist her lovely smile between the songs looking charmingly timid. Lucy Rose breaks hearts of many as she goes on with her beautiful and delicate music and plays other songs such as Lines and Bikes from her upcoming debut album Like I Used To ready for a release in September.

Housse de Racket (FRA)

The French indie electro-rock masters have played over 200 live shows from small stages as SXSW music conference in Texas to big stages as Modern Sky Festival in Beijing, and now they have come to play at Positivus festival. They seem to prefer the second option as it’s harder for them to play in a very small place, they admit in a press conference. It could be true after hearing their lively music that obviously needs space. The French duo, that is very proud to sing in their mother tongue thus sounding unique and different, come on Positivus stage to start with the rather instrumental Alesia, the title song of their second album. They go on with the melodic and catchy Chateau. ‘Ladies, can we hear you screaming? Gentlemen, and now you?’ they have found a very appropriate way how to present the next song Les Hommes Et Les Femmes. We also get to hear the energetic Synthetiseur and catchy Oh Yeah. They give a great show with a true happiness to be here and are a perfect start to open Positivus main stage. 

Niki & The Dove (SWE)

Malin Dahlstrom, Gustav Karlof and Magnus Boqvist or Niki & The Dove gave one of the most impressive performances at Positivus. The Swedish electropop trio comes on a stage, and the first thing to notice is Malin’s colorful and bright outfit next to Gustav’s combination of black & white. They start with Mother Protect from their debut album Instinct immediately followed by their greatest and probably most awaited hit Dj, Ease My Mind. That strongly excites the audience, and having felt that, the band doesn’t hide being overwhelmed and expressing their happiness to play at Positivus. ‘You give us so much love,’ they say and dedicate the next song Tomorrow to the ‘loveable and amazing crowd’. After that Malin offers to climb a hill together in the song The Fox, and then it’s time for the last song - The Drummer when we hear for the last time Malin’s magnificent voice, Magnus’s gifted drum play and Gustav’s hypnotic mastery of keyboards accompanied with some well-studied Latvian words. Niki & The Dove leave the stage with Gustav’s ‘goodbye’ in Latvian (čau, čau) and seem very glad to have played at Positivus.

Ewert and The Two Dragons (EST)

It took them two years to play on the main stage at Positivus. As they remember themselves, it has been an interesting journey. Estonian indie-rockers started playing at Positivus on a small stage in 2010 followed by a bit larger one the following year and finally in 2012 they are deservedly gathering a great crowd at the main stage. Crowd that is up for them already from the band’s first accords as they start with the well known hit (In The End) There’s Only Love from their second album Good Man Down. Titled as currently the best internationally known band from the Baltics, Estonian dragons have played gigs and been noticed in America and now earned a very long and still ongoing tour all around Europe. ‘You are all responsible for that’, the lead singer Ewert Sundja is thankful to their faithful audience at Positivus. As their concert continues, they also play such well known singles as Jolene and Good Man Down; the latter has reached number 1 on Latvian iTunes right after the festival. 

Fanfarlo (UK)

Known for their eclectic musical compositions using trumpet, mandolin, violin, musical saw and other instruments London’s Fanfarlo was expected to play at Positivus already last year. Having apologized for not being able to do that, they are here this year and give a double joy with their beautiful music and friendliness towards the audience. Moreover, as they come on the stage they have stopped the rain, and white clouds start arising for them to appreciate their wonderful music with Amos Memon’s extraordinary voice. They perform songs from both albums (Reservoir and Rooms Filled With Light), thus we get to hear Lenslife, Comets, Finish Line, The Walls Are Coming Down and others. Very emphatic and inspirational performance! ‘We will come back as soon as possible’, the vocalist promises and their fans feel good about it. 

Brodka (PL)

Polish singer Monika Brodka with her band comes on a stage as colorful as her music which combines modern electro and alternative pop with folk elements. She has been noticed internationally, and British The Guardian has compared her to Polish Kate Bush. With her new songs recorded in Los Angeles she is ready to conquer the world. She sings mostly in Polish but there are also some English songs on her set list like Varsovie and Dancing Shoes which are catchy and full of energy - that’s what you need on a fine Saturday afternoon.

With guys from ''Housse de Racket"

SBTRKT and Their Hurricane

Positivus 2012

Salacgrīva, Latvia

July 21st

SBTRKT or ‘subtract’ is known as a DJ under his colorful Indian mask. A person who wants to deliver his music and remain anonymous thus leaving only music that would speak about him. And it does! He has remixed such artists as Radiohead, Mark Ronson, Underworld, Basement Jaxx and others, and this year is one of the headliners who perform on Positivus main stage. 

Salacgrīva (Latvia) is just one of his stops on his busy tour schedule from UK to Tokyo, from Norway to San Francisko. While some of his upcoming gigs in London are already sold out, Positivus should be thankful to have this unique opportunity see him play live together with Sampha, one of his co-musicians. 

The show starts with Never Never from the debut album Young Turks. After that Sampha spares some introduction words praising the festival by saying ‘it’s so much positive energy out here’. Meanwhile, SBTRKT are ready for the next song, and it’s the well known Hold On. ‘Hold On, Positivus’, they say as if getting the audience ready for an amazing show.

They are doing well with the rest of the songs such as Something Goes On and Pharaohs when we hear the voice of Roses Gabor who has been featured on the song. Then with a rather long instrumental part starts the last song Right Thing To Do when Sampha asks everyone sing along Such a hurricane, such a hurtin pain making the song last longer and maintaining the connection with the audience. People who have been dancing on the ‘muddy dance-floor’ follow this invitation and leave the band satisfied with their performance. 

Their show is not long and perhaps not interesting for everyone, but some of those post-dubstep dance rhythms are definitely worth to catch somewhere between The Vaccines and Fanfarlo who confine them on Positivus line-up. 

Keane Came As Strangers, Left As Friends

Positivus festival, Salacgrīva, Latvia

June 20th 2012

As long as Positivus festival has existed (6 years), there has been a wish to have Keane playing amidst these woods of pine trees in Salacgrīva. Finally, that wish of organizers has come true and the long anticipated and well known English alternative rock band Keane honored Positivus audience as the main headliners on June 20th.

Just like their last album Strangeland, starts their show – with the song You Are Young. Fearful child have faith in brighter days/Stay until this darkness fades away. For a moment it seems that also the lead singer Tom Chaplin takes the role of his created ‘fearful child’ that has arrived in this ‘strangeland’ – an unknown audience yet to discover. They continue with Bend and Break from their first album Hopes and Fears, and then again a song from the last album follows. Though some music reviews have criticized Strangeland as a way back in their music career, Keane are very proud to present the album songs constantly intertwining them between such well known hits as Nothing In My Way, Perfect Symmetry, Everybody’s Changing. 

Moreover, Strangeland, the title song of the last album, is presented in a special intimate atmosphere turning off the lights, illuminating the title Strangeland on their back, switching off the guitar and showing Keane in its classical element – with piano played by Tom Chaplin. ‘This is our first visit in Latvia ever,’ the lead singer reveals after the song and further on confirms it with the next song We Might As Well Be Strangers – strangers in this new land which the band seems to start to like as Tom praises ‘the beautiful festival’ and expresses regret for not having known about it earlier. 

Perhaps, there are moments when the songs from the album Strangeland make the audience feel a bit like losing connection persistently demanding and waiting for the band’s greatest hits. And they get them right after the song Disconnected! This Is The Last Time, Somewhere Only We Know, Is It Any Wonder and finally Bedshaped as a dedication to the magical Positivus festival as they call it. But what do I know? What do I know? I know! The lyrics of the song say, and they fit so perfectly with the concept of a strange land the band has now discovered on their way from being a ‘fearful child’ in their first song. And yes! Now they know they need to come for encore! They perform Sea Fog creating a very intimate moment with piano as the only background instrument. Then it’s time for Sovereign Light Café, and with truly admitting they have enjoyed every moment in the festival calling it an ‘incredible experience’ they perform the very last song Crystal Ball as if passing it to this ‘magic festival’ with its magic crowd. Yes, what do they know? They know! Now they know this strangeland Latvia. 

Contrasting Goa: Five-star banana leaves

Banana trees

He was from North; she was from South. He lived in a luxurious apartment with a fabulous view overlooking beach; she stayed with her family who lived in a hut made of banana leaves with a view overlooking a patch of trees. Perhaps Kunwar and Sheena would never meet each other, but a group of three friends met them both as they both invited them for a meal, they both welcomed them to their homes in Goa, they both introduced them to their small worlds they were living in, they both shared their time and stories with the foreign travellers coming from Mexico, Bulgaria and Latvia.

Having decided to avoid crowds and increased prices in the peak season (December, January), the friends chose November for their visit to the smallest (in area) and richest state of India. Goa is a special place. Located on the coast of Arabian sea it offers a great variety of everything: Indian temples, European style architecture influenced from Portuguese times in Goa, Old town with churches, sunny beaches, parties, luxurious hotels and delicious food. It’s a paradise for different kind of travellers who keep coming here throughout the whole year to enjoy the lively spirit of Goa.

The friends arrived at Vasco da Gama station by train from Hyderabad. Indian trains are an adventure itself, therefore, no surprise, that it wasn’t a regular trip. They met Sheena on the train, a 25-year-old Indian girl who was going home to her parents’ place. It seemed Goa had welcomed the friends already in the train as Sheena kindly invited them for lunch at her place. Why not? The foreigners exchanged the phone numbers with the girl and arranged to meet later in the days to come. Not yet. They had to meet their Couchsurfing host from Panaji first. 

After arriving at the train station, the friends took a bus to Panaji, the capital of Goa, to meet Kunwar who picked them up by car to take his guests to his apartment. He was a 30-year-old guy and worked as an engineer for a company. On the very evening they became good friends and together visited Miramare beach where they enjoyed sea food, loose sand and merry dance rhythms. The next day they went on with sightseeing and finally relaxed at Arambol beach where they swam and took lots of pictures at the sunset. As the evening came, they saluted it with a pleasant fatigue and hunger. 

„I know a good place for dinner,” said their host Kunwar enthusiastically. The friends trusted him since the moment they had entered his car and obediently followed his idea. Kunwar was a good guy, helpful, friendly and not only well off, but very generous to his guests. But nobody expected him to be that generous! 

When the three friends entered Taj Mahal Hotel, they couldn’t believe Kunwar had chosen such a luxurious place for dinner. Can we afford it? The first thought came to friends’ mind as they didn’t realize yet that their host is inviting them. The friends were recently graduated youngsters. Therefore, the luxury their host offered them was perceived with a great astonishment that slowly turned into a pleasant wealthy savor. Mountains of food were awaiting to be consumed: chicken, fish, vegetables, cheese, mushrooms, rice, Western, Chinese, Indian cuisines, and more and more, and more....and then cakes, ice-cream, sweets for dessert. They easily yielded themselves to the different foods and tastes and could not be more stuffed after leaving the restaurant with its obliging servants here and there: around your table offering more food, on the way to your car taking excellent five-star care of you. Sir? Madam? Would you like...? The friends had been spoiled with those extremely polite but most probably fake phrases. 

On the next day morning Kunwar went for work while the three friends decided to go to South Goa and visit Sheena, their ‘friend from the train’. They didn’t know at the time that just like there is North and South, yin and yang, day and night, there is an extremely opposite life waiting for them at Sheena’s place. Kunwar’s car always ready to pick them up had now been replaced by the local bus running between Panaji and a small town in South Goa. But, no worries as to finding a place. Sheena had kindly come to Panaji to show them the way to her home. It seemed to be an important day for her and the whole family.

„I can’t talk right now... yes, yes... I am busy today... I have these foreign guests coming,” unobtrusively proud she was when announced it a couple of times on her mobile phone while they were in the bus. Her family is welcoming foreigners. Their friends got the message.

As they arrived at the bus station (actually they had taken two buses to reach the final destination), there was no one this time to pick them up. No car waiting for them as in the case with Kunwar. No luxury. They started walking to Sheena’s house.

„Here? Here?” like kids impatient to finally see the many-times-mentioned house the friends were asking to Sheena as they passed by many houses.

„Soon, soon,” she happily replied feeding their curiosity.

Perhaps each of the friends had visualized the place in his/her mind before they arrived there but by no means nobody had expected to see something like that. As they approached a patch of banana trees with their eyes searching for a decent, big house they never imagined that it’s that small hut right there among the trees.

„This is my home,” Sheena said with the same pride as previously talking on phone and telling her friends that she is busy with foreign guests. „And this is my mother and sister, my father is at work,” she introduced her family who had shyly come out to meet the foreigners. It was a short span of time given to the friends to recover from the posh experience in North Goa and what they were facing right now here in South Goa. But by no means was it a problem or inconvenience. They took it as an extremely opposite experience knocking on their doors of open-mindedness. The family was sincere and sweat and after all, it’s not about the house, food or car, it’s about people who welcome you with their warm hearts and great hospitality. 

Further on, Sheena invited the foreigners to see the small hut. It had two rooms, very cramped but seemed to have everything necessary in them: TV, beds, closet, shelves, electricity. There was even an aquarium with fish just beside the bed. The family loved pets. They also had lots of colorful birds and parrots kept in the cages in the small hut and outside the house. Sometimes they happened to welcome unwanted and dangerous „pets” too. Sheena remembered how she had once found a snake hiding behind the TV. The whole family had got scared and gone to their neighbors to ask for help. Luckily, it hadn’t been poisonous snake and they had managed to take it out.

„Do you want some refreshments now or ... lunch?” after some shared stories Sheena asked. Though the friends didn’t insist on any treatment, the family had prepared everything and wanted to show their best hospitality.

„No, no, it’s ok. All is fine,” the friends answered politely while Sheena was nervously talking to her mother planning how to proceed with those aliens. Not every day the family went through such an experience. 

„We will bring you refreshments now,” Sheena decided and brought 3 small packs of orange juice. 

„Please have some,” she invited. The friends thanked and each took the juice. 

„What about you? You are not drinking?” one of the three friends wondered.

„No, no, I don’t really like this type of juice,” Sheena answered. Was it really the matter of taste or perhaps the limited number of juice they had bought leaving themselves with water...

The same happened at the lunch table. After similar nervous discussions about where to eat - inside or outside (as it was related to the arrangements of lunch table and fans, a problem which seemed so meaningless to the guests but not to the family who wanted everything to be as perfect as possible) - the friends were invited to have a meal outside. Their plate was banana leaf taken from one of the trees besides and their meal was plain rice with curry and a fish. Though there were four small fishes prepared for three friends and Sheena, the host refused to eat hers. 

„I don’t really like fish, so you can eat mine,” she said with a confidence and the friends again thought it’s not a matter of fish but her sweat heart and the impression she wants to leave. Moreover, it was only them four eating and when friends asked why her mother and sister are not joining, Sheena answered they are not hungry yet and would have their lunch later...

Lunch on banana leaves

The three felt they were treated undeservedly special, but couldn’t do anything about it and just started eating. They couldn’t believe the extreme feelings they were going through. Some hours ago they had been spoiled with five-star dinner at a fancy hotel while now they were sitting among banana trees, each with his/her banana leaf eating rice and fish with their hands (Indian way). The perfect and impersonal servants with fake smiles on their lips had now been replaced with a sincere and genuine family, truly happy for being able to host foreign guests and treat them the best way they could...

One starts to think: there is nothing like choosing which way is better or which way is right. You can’t just sort or judge these kinds of experiences. The three friends were thankful to both. They enjoyed the company and the small worlds of both their hosts. Both of them wanted to make them feel welcome. Both of them shared their friendliness and hospitality, their good hearts and souls... Even though the lives of Kunwar and Sheena are completely different, the three friends learned from both experiences, both contrasts that are so common in Goa and the whole India as the rich and the poor coexists next to each other in the same harmony as there is a day and night, yin and yang, South and North. 

Arambol beach in Goa

Sonu is my Favourite Teacher

Usha: What is your favourite colour?
- Purple.
Usha: Mine too. Your favourite day?
- Monday.
Usha: Yes! The same for me. Your favourite ‘dress’?
- Hmmm...I don’t know. What about you?
Usha: Jeans and a top. Just like you have now.
- Oh, thank you. And who is your favourite teacher?
Usha: Sonu Christensen!

Usha, a 12 years old Indian girl, is just one of around 80 street children in Delhi who would point at Sonu Christensen as her favourite teacher. And most probably their first and only teacher. There she is – a calm and peaceful lady dressed in a green sari, with her black hair neatly arranged on her back, sitting on the ground in the middle at the small but decent classroom surrounded by a bunch of kids – you might not even notice her when entering the small room. Curious faces, raised hands, loud voices, deep and inquisitive eyes of children aged from 5 to 18 are Sonu’s everyday life. Teaching them is Sonu’s passion. She is a teacher at the school she has opened herself. A school for street children.

Sonu is Nepalese and she moved to India after getting married to an Indian. She used to work at a private school, but after giving birth to her own child and being asked by her husband what she would like to do next, Sonu knew she didn’t want to go back to her old school. She also knew she was not going to sit at home like many other women in India do. Sonu recalled a memory from the days when she was a school girl: many street kids curiously peering through the windows and wondering what the other kids in those nice school uniforms were doing, what it was like to be at a school, to study. ‘I would have let them in’, Sonu thought at that time. ‘But I couldn’t, as it wasn’t my school.’ Sonu saved this picture in her mind and hoped to open her own school for street children. One day...

That day came, and Sonu has now been living her dream for six years. With the support from her husband and financial help from a private donor she has managed to arrange two rooms for her passion to flourish. Once you enter the first floor, you see a room with a clean floor where children are sitting with their notebooks on their laps. They are listening to Sonu as she teaches science, math, Hindi, English. She wants the kids to be able to compete with those who study in private schools. She wants them to continue their education when they graduate from her school. She wants them to be able to pass the exams just like the other kids.

Especially Sonu wants to empower the girls. Women empowerment is her other passion along with educating street children. And very often these two challenges are closely related. The children study till noon, then they go home, but Sonu’s school starts living the afternoon life. And that is reserved for women. She empowers women and encourages them to take up leadership and initiative. She has bought several sewing machines and once the women come to Sonu’s afternoon workshops they carry out different handicraft tasks, share problems they have at home (for example, husbands who are alcoholics) and encourage each other to be strong, to strive for their lives and dreams. 

Sonu also makes sure her work is sustainable. She wants her older students who come from small villages and have graduated from her school to go back to their village and educate kids there. She also gives them responsibilities in her classes and asks them to assist in teaching younger kids. 

It’s evening when Sonu leaves her school to go home to her family. Her husband and son are waiting for her in the cramped and modest two bedroom apartment they have. It’s smaller than Sonu’s school. It has a tiny kitchen and two rooms with almost no furniture, just mattresses to fit themselves and foreign guests they often have as Sonu wants them to experience Indian hospitality. She doesn’t want luxury. As simple as possible, she said to her husband when they moved in. Her fulfilled dream gives her space, luxury and richness. It gives her energy for the next morning when the 12 years old Usha and many other street children wake up to go to school. Because now they have a school!